Bali ... or bust?

The good people of Bali (and we met a lot of them) would likely be disappointed if they read what I'm about to write. In fairness, my views of their Island are likely influenced by unfortunate circumstances largely beyond their control.

First, it rained ... in fact poured rain ... for most of the two days we were there.  And our arrival was marred by a stand-off between Indonesian immigration and the Solstice top brass that resulted in a lengthy delay of getting off the ship.  We could see the officers on cell phone with binoculars pacing back and forth on the bridge, trying to figure out what to do. We were suppose to disembark at 8:00AM.  We didn't get off until 12:30PM.

 

But even if you take those factors out of the equation, the fact is Bali fell short when it came to living up to this image I had of it being a beautiful tropical Paradise.  The majority of my fellow travelers, upon returning to the ship, were in agreement, some outraged the ship would even stop there (but these are the people who seem to complain about everything, going through life with a bad attitude).  Others, who booked themselves into a resort were a bit kinder.

I was reminded at least a couple of times that Bali is a third world country where poverty is prevalent throughout the small communities. But Mexico, where I live, is also considered a third world country by many (I would argue that Mexico is rapidly rising above third world status) and the differences between Mexico and Bali are significant.  

Upon exiting the port in Benoa, we were confronted by hundreds of locals, pushing, pulling, thrusting junky trinkets into our face, into our hands.  Likewise, there were swarms of drivers, each trying to out yell the other in an effort to get you to ride in their car.   We were warned that thieves and pickpockets were thick among the hucksters and to not wear jewelry or carry wallets or large amounts of cash.  We had no problems, but it certainly wasn't a flower lei greeting.

Within 20 miles beyond the port, we found predominantly crowded unkept communities, where survival, not luxury, marks the existence of the residents.   Unlike Puerto Vallarta, unlike Hawaii, unlike other established tourist destinations, my take was in general, Bali is not there.  That being said, we (and others we talked with) had some new experiences that were memorable.

Eighty percent of the population here is Hindu and every Hindu home has a temple in it, from a little shrine in the corner of the room to block long edifices built by extended families.  It is a deeply sincere populace (hucksters aside) where the people we met have a genuine connection with their spiritual  being and an interest in respecting others.  I must say it was enlightening and refreshing.  We visited the Batuan temple, but the torrential rains impacted our brief stay.  Even so, I felt blessed to be there.  It was one of two highlights of my visit.   The other at the other end of the spectrum ... The Elephant Safari Park.

It was touristy, but the first night in Bali, we took the 90 minute drive outside the cities.  A narrow road winding through the tropical jungle took us past rice fields tiered on the sloping hillsides to a sanctuary where 30 elephants have been rescued from Sumatra.   It is a beautiful spot where the sacred elephants are treated like royalty, and have become acclimated living with humans.   Feed an elephant?  Sure.  Ride an elephant? OK.   I connected with our elephant, Barry, who I am certain is thinking of our experience together now.

Also of interest in Bali, a neighborhood where monkeys outnumber residents.  They are everywhere, hanging from power lines, swooping down plucking food from the hands on unsuspecting tourists. We were told to protect our sunglasses and cameras, the monkeys might make off with them.  It was very amusing.

 

The island is loaded with spas and massage parlors, and bargaining is a way of life there except at the major hotel resorts that we did not see.   We were told a half day of a full treatment at a spa costs about $100.  

The most significant lasting impression I take from Bali is that of the people ... They are extremely gracious, polite, and they want to make sure you love their country and their customs.   From guides, to waiters, to drivers, to police.  That's why I feel a bit disheartened that I did not leave Bali with the most positive impression.

 

Interesting facts about Bali.  Gasoline is very cheap, about $1.60 a gallon,  5 pesos a liter.   There are a few gas stations, but mostly gasoline is sold in one liter water or liquor bottles from little stands by the side of the road.  There are no pay phones anymore (and very few land lines),  but cell service is so cheap, you can ask anyone to use their cell phone.  It was a port police officer who told us there were no phones, but offered us his cell to use to make a local call, then walked away, returning a few minutes later when we were finished.   He just wanted to help.  There is no cable TV or satellite available, you only get a few channels the old fashion way (by antenna) and they have not seen flat screen or HDTVs yet.   McDonalds, KFC, and Pizza Hut are everywhere, bringing their "quality" of food to this part of the world.